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The "Angela" show (WWL-TV news anchor Angela Hill's afternoon talk show)
on May 9, 1995, was a presentation of the "old" and "new" of New Orleans
cooking. The "old" was represented by two gentlemen from the Praline
Connection (didn't catch their names; one was a young chef and the other
an older gentleman that did most of the talking), and the "new" by
George Rhode IV, who is now executive chef of Straya, Al Copeland's
place around the corner from here. Since we haven't done much with
recipes lately on the list, I thought I'd do an "old" and "new" here as
well. This'll give some of you who should be starting New Orleans
withdrawl about now after a weekend or two here for Da Fest something to
ease the pain.

Here are two chicken dishes. I'm pretty sure that the first time I had
Chicken Clemenceau was at Galatoire's, so it's fairly representative of
"old." The second is by Emeril, which definitely puts it in the "new."

First the "old." It's a bit unfair to use that term. Perhaps "classic"
would be better, since "old" infers tired and worn. I wouldn't call
anything on Galatoire's menu "tired" or "worn," yet you'd have to admit
that Galatoire's certainly isn't "new."

Chicken Clemenceau

1 small chicken, cut in serving pieces
Salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup butter
1 cup cubed potatoes
1/4 cup cooking oil
1/2 cup sliced fresh mushrooms
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 cup small green peas, drained
1 teaspoon minced parsley

Season the chicken with the salt and pepper. In a 9-inch skillet, melt
the butter and saute' the chicken until it is tender and golden brown.
Transfer the chicken to paper towels to drain. In a separate skillet
heat the oil. Add the potatoes and fry them until they are golden
brown. Season the potatoes with salt and pepper and drain them on paper
towels. In the skillet used to cook the chicken saute the mushrooms,
garlic, and fried potatoes for 5 minutes. Add the peas and parsley and
heat the mixture thoroughly. Arrange the chicken pieces on a platter
and cover them with the vegetable mixture. Serves 2.

Now for the new. One of the reasons Emeril Lagasse is such a hit is
that he takes ingredients that we've used all our lives and twists them
into something completely different. The end result isn't "heresy" or
"perversion," but something new and wonderful.

Stuffed Chicken Legs in Pastry with Andouille Cream

Makes 4 main-course servings

1 1/2 cups Andouille Corn-Bread Stuffing
1 recipe Basic Pie Dough, rolled out into two 9-inch dough rounds, cut
in half
4 boned (except for the nuckle or joint at the bottom of the drumstick)
chicken legs, the thigh and the drumstick all in 1 piece.
2 teaspoons Creole Seasoning
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 cups Andouille Cream

Prepare the Andouille corn-Bread Stuffing and the Basic Pie Dough.
Preheat the oven to 375F. Line a baken sheet with parchment or wax
paper. Spread the meat of the chicken legs open and sprinkle the inside
of each with 3/4 teaspoon Creole Seasoning. Sprinkle the outside of
each leg with another 1/4 teaspoon Creole Seasoning, and use your hands
to coat thoroughly. Stuff the cavity of each leg with 6 tablespoons of
the stuffing and close the skin around it. Brush the half-circles of
dough with some of the beaten egg and place one leg on each piece with
the joint sticking out. Fold the ends over to create a wrapper and
place, seam side down, on the baking sheet. Brush the outside of each
package with more of the beaten egg and bake until the crust is brown
and the chicken tender, for about 35 minutes. Then prepare the
Andouille Cream. To serve, spoon 1/2 cup of the Andouille Cream onto
each of 4 dinner plates, and place a baked chicken leg on each.

Andouille Corn-Bread Stuffing

makes 1 1/2 cups

1 tablespoon olive oil
1/4 cup chopped onions
4 ounces (1/2 cup) chopped andouille sausage
1/4 cup chopped green onions
2 tablespoons chopped celery
2 tablespoons chopped green bell peppers
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon Creole seasoning
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 turns freshly ground black pepper
1 cup coarsely crumbled Japaleno Corn Muffins
1/2 cup chicken stock

Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the onions and
andouille and saute for 1 minute. Add the green onions, celery, bell
peppers, and garlic and stir-fry for 1 minute. Stir in the Creole
seasoning, salt, pepper, corn muffins, and stock and cook, stirring and
shaking the skillet, for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Use
immediately.

Jalapeno Corn Muffins

makes 12 muffins

1 tablespoon softened butter
4 large eggs
2 tablespoons seeded and minced jalapeno peppers
2 cups fresh corn kernels, scraped from 3 or 4 blanched ears of corn
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup milk
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Preheat the oven to 375F. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin with the softened
butter. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs with the jalapenos and corn.
Stir in the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt. Beat in the milk
and oil. Pour the batter into the muffin tin. Bake until golden, for
about 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool slightly before
serving.

Basic Pie Dough

makes 2 9-inch crusts

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup (10 2/3 tablespoons) very cold unsalted butter, cut up, or solid
vegetable shortening, or lard
4 1/2 tablespoons ice water

In a bowl, combine the flour and salt. Add the butter or shortening and
work it through with your hands until the mixture resembles coars
crumbs. Using the tines of a fork, stir in the water 1 tablespoon at a
time and work it in with your hands just until you have a smooth ball of
dough. (don't overhandle the dough.) Wrap in plastic and refrigerate
for 20 minutes. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and place on a
floured surface. If you're making 2 crusts, cut the dough in half and
put the second half back in the refrigerator. For each crust, roll out
the dough on a floured surface into a circle about 14 inches in diameter
and 1/8 inch thick. Gently fold the circle in half then in half again
so that you can lift it without tearing it, and unfold it into a 9-inch
pie pan. Crimp the edges, or pinch in a decorative border. Fill and
bake as directed.

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