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CREAMED SPINACH Makes 4 (side dish) servings. 1 1/2 lb baby spinach 1/2 small onion, finely chopped 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm milk 2 tablespoons freshly grated parmesan 1/2 teaspoon salt Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg Cook spinach in 1 inch of boiling salted water in a large pot, covered, stirring once or twice, until wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water until cool. Squeeze small handfuls of spinach to remove as much moisture as possible, then coarsely chop.
Cook onion in butter in a small heavy saucepan over moderately low heat, stirring, until softened, about 4 minutes. Whisk in flour and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add warm milk and simmer, whisking, 3 to 4 minutes. Whisk in parmesan, salt, nutmeg, and pepper to taste. Add spinach and cook, stirring, until heated through.
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